EuroGreen Observations

That's all folks!

2007-07-20T01:59:00.000-07:00

Some good things must end!

As I come to the end of this remarkable journey, I am filled with great appreciation for my remarkable experiences and lasting memories. People, places and plants come together in extraordinary ways across Europe! I have great appreciation and deep gratitude for many people that made this extraordinary journey possible.
- Eisenhower Fellowships for investing in me as part of their 2007 Urban Challenges Program
- My husband and daughters for graciously putting up with my absence for two months
- My work family at the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society for giving me the opportunity to travel and learn, and absorbing all my work during my travels.
- My program coordinators in Spain, Germany and Brussels for putting together wonderful opportunities for me to explore unique landscapes and learn from the experiences of local talent
- All the great people – officials, design professionals, artists, gardeners, greening enthusiasts that I met across Europe who were generous with their time and their experiences
- The network of Eisenhower Fellows who extended their hospitatlity and were generous in sharing their time, making me feel welcome as I traveled alone.

It’s been fun to blog during my trip - I return to Philadelphia energized by all that I have learned. Even more so, I return with a sense of affirmation for all that we are doing that makes Philadelphia a great city. It takes being away for a little while to appreciate home, and I’m eager to be back! Thanks for tuning in, I look forward to seeing you all out and about soon.

Lasting Impressions

2007-07-19T10:36:00.000-07:00

My travels in Europe have been a great opportunity to experience many facets of urban life – revealing the value and important role that open space and green infrastructure plays in the economic, social and environmental success of European cities. Europeans love their cities. Everywhere I went it was evident that city residents have deep connections to its parks, gardens and greenways. Their daily lives integrate enjoying and caring for the outdoors in unique and wonderful ways. This societal commitment to the environment reflects in government policy and practices as well – at local, regional and federal levels.

The evidence of what quality open space and green infrastructure can do as part of the economic engine of cities is clearly demonstrated in many European cities, with the planning design and implementation processes clearly linked to economic and community building projects such as riverfronts, downtown centers, and neighborhood developments. The dramatic greenway in Lyon, the rust belt renaturalization projects of the Emscher River Regional Park in north Germany, Berlin’s new greenways masterplan, the newly constructed cover park on the M-30 parkway in Madrid, Barcelona and Bilbao’s revitalized riverfronts – these are just some of the examples of how open space issues are positioned as critical components of these massive infrastructure projects.

In Spain, I marvel at the ways in which everyday lives of its people play out in the grand parks and plazas of its cities. Arts and cultural institutions play a significant role as part of these spaces in Spanish cities – integrating such institutions into new public spaces has been a strategic direction for new developments. As center stage to community life, these spaces are grand or intimate, ornately designed or plain paved plazas, filled with trees or not, and all of them serve as outdoor spaces for families, the elderly, teenagers and office workers. There are many clues to successful landscape design in these spaces – where community needs are met beautifully and a sense of place is created. When life is integrated as well as it is in Spain with its great outdoors, it’s a sure formula for success.

My four weeks in Germany leaves me inspired by many things German. Most of all, I am in awe of the high level of commitment to conservation and preservation of the environment – from individuals, kids, local communities, cities, as well as government at all levels. This commitment comes through in many ways and is well integrated with daily life – individual recycling and reuse practices are very sophisticated, public transportation is the norm, alternative energy is widely used in homes across the country, and finally the huge love of the outdoors makes its citizens active environmentalists. I learnt about the concept of ‘upcycling’ from a professor in Kassel, Germany who is creating items of higher value from recycled materials – and is experimenting with costructing gabions and concrete blocks from crushed materials available at abandoned factory sites. I found out that a teabag is most efficiently recycled by using all four bins readily available on city streets – the metal staple, the paper, the string and the tea leaves all deposited in the appropriate recycling container!

Germany’s strong environmental ethic is evidenced in the local, regional and federal policies regarding environment protection and urban regeneration. At the federal level, the government has an ecological tax on petrol and other non-renewable sources of energy, and has pledged to cut down their 1990 carbon-dioxide emissions by 21% by 2012. Their emissions are already down by 18.5 %. There are plans to shut all its 19 nuclear plants by 2020. Research into renewable energies is a high priority, as is developing new businesses related to alternative energy. The utility company is required to buy any power produced by an individual or an organization at four times its regular costs, creating incentives for every homeowner to put up solar panels and pump energy into the grid. Wind farms are everywhere and by 2025, there is a plan that 15% of electricity will be produced from this source. The largest solar power plant in the world, located near Munich produces enough electricity for about 5000 people. Rivers in Germany are cleaner than ever, this is quite remarkable given that the Rhine was considered ‘dead’ by the 1970’s. All these policies have had an effect of creating new ‘green’ businesses, promoting environmentally friendly practices.

New landscapes in Germany may not attract the celebrity designers that have flocked to Spain. Yet, German firms such as those led by Peter Latz and Herbert Drieseitl are gaining international acclaim for their innovations in sustainable landscapes. Some of their work as well as the work of others include excellent examples such as the newly reclaimed industrial areas in the Emscher region, reclamation landscapes in Munich and Frankfurt, and the massive redevelopment efforts that are underway in Berlin. Investments in landscapes are not confined to new ones alone. Continued support and stewardship of longterm spaces such as community gardens, local parks, signature spaces in the downtown areas, bikeways and regional parks continue to receive significant federal, state and local funds. The investments in city infrastructure and related quality open spaces are staggering – and from all levels of government. I am in awe of the community gardens, old and new that continue to be thriving open space assets in larger German cities. The older historic parks such as the Tiergarten in Berlin, or the Englishergarten in Munich are great examples of regional open space assets that have a timeless appeal to its users and continue to be cared for with supportive management practices.

My stop in Brussels to get an orientation of the European Union and its approach to the urban environment was quite an eye-opener! Can you imagine a bureaucracy that works on a model of collaboration and consensus building across 25 nations in 23 languages? There have been criticisms of EU practices, and I am struck by the high level of checks and balances that exist in all their work. The links between EU, federal, regional and local governments exist in the form of working partnerships and ongoing relationships. It’s quite amazing to see how much knowledge the EU program staff I met had of local and regional issues. Since the EU funding works in a predictable seven year cycle, there is great opportunity for collaborations from all levels to create project ideas together, fund and implement them, observe them and create the next level of investment. It was great to get such a great overview of the EU’s role in urban environmental issues. Particularly in some of the newer EU member countries such as Spain, Ireland and the eastern European nations, EU’s role in their redevelopment has played a significant role in their economic comeback.

And there is much more, and the stories are long! I was in search for synergies between people, places and plants, and what I have learned about all three has given me much to pause on and assimilate. I also feel a sense of affirmation for many of the things that we do so well in Philadelphia and at PHS.

An old American army base reclaimed

2007-07-02T08:48:00.000-07:00

The Maurice Rose Airfield, an American airforce base located near Frankfurt was always a topic of conversation among locals because of the noise. When the base was closed in 1992, the community immediatly took it over as a place for walks, hikes and biking to the consternation of the authorities who were eager to seal off the place because of the contaminants in the ground. A happy compromise was reached when the authorities and the community were able to work with a GTL Landscape Architects from Kassel, Germany to create a master plan for the base that cordoned off spaces that were considered contaminated, remediated some areas, and created a reclamation landscape in other parts of the site that has become an area for returning diversity of flora and fauna.

The design was able to successfully intervene in strategic, yet simple ways to retain the feel of the old use, and yet create new spaces for community recreation. The old control tower is now a cafe and environmental education center. On weekends, families gather here to get started on their weekend adventures. Parts of the main runway have become a great roller blading area. Further out, sections of the runway have been torn up for nature to reclaim. What remains are the old markings along which narrow paths, remnants of the runway have been kept.

A new pedestrian bridge links sections of the new park together creating a big loop for bikes and hikes.

The bridge is elegant in its design, also creating a stopping point for looking at the river below and watching the canoers and fishermen. The asphalt expanses remain on site in some locations, but have been broken up to create drainage. Then nature takes it course ... Left over rubble is contained in gabions to create seating.

The park is used in many different ways, and its clear that the community has adopted the site as its outdoor room. Horse riders go by ......

A family outing includes a stop at the newly created pond among the rubble.

Canoers launch their boats from the bridge .... Bikers zip by ........
Signs made by children let people know not to disturb the tall grasses during the nesting season.
What I am most struck by is the re-naturalization process that is occuring on areas of the old runway and concrete pads that were broken up and left to be. There are three types of areas - large slabs, medium sized pieces, and the third size is rubble the size of soccer balls. Each area shows a variety of species, both flora and fauna returning. There is a debate among the landscape architects whether nature should continue to take its course, or should there be any intervention if the non-native species taking hold are invasive. Meanwhile, visitors climb over slabs of concrete. I peek inbetween and find a number of frogs leaping around. I hear that some of the species of frogs are now on the return. There is a monitoring process underway to see how these spaces evolve and what nature brings back. As a reminder that all this is very close to a metropolitan area, the skyline of Frankfurt hugs the edges of the park.

An EcoCity in the Black Forest

2007-07-02T07:56:00.000-07:00

My train winds its way to Freiburg into the heart of the Black Forest. The views are breathtaking as we enter the south of Germany. My visit to Freiburg is primarily to see how this small city has focused on creating a model sustainable community -Vauban, experience the black forests, and visit with forestry professors at the technical university in Freiburg.

Freiburg is surrounded by the beautiful Black Forest mountains and located along the Dreisam river, on the foothills of the Schlossberg. The forests are so named because of the pines that give it a dark appearance from afar. These are beautiful mountains, giving Freiburg a unique and magnificient landscape as a backdrop. I am lucky to stay in the oldest inn in Germany during this visit - its family run, and has a great old world atmosphere. The daily market held at the town square is charming as well as a great support to local farmers and artists who bring their wares here everyday. As I walk through the town center, I notice open drains with stormwater flowing though them! This unusual system of gutters – Bachle in German, was originally installed to provide water to fight fires and feed cattle. Today, the system manages stormwater flow, and remains a quaint element along the streets of Freiburg. Freiburg gets its reputation as an eco-city because of its base of solar industries and alternative energy research.

Vauban, a community to the south of Feiburg, is located on an old military base occupied by the French - now rehabilitated as an eco-community. When the military left in 1992, a group of people squatted here and fought for the development of an alternative community with local government. Over the years, the army barracks were developed into flats and dormitories, and a master plan for the new community was developed with significant input from the residents.Even today, some of the caravans and creatively modified vehicles of the early residents have a place in Vauban. This planned community has developed over the years into an impressive model for sustainable living. Everyone cycles, and half the community is car-free. Its impressive to me to hear that local families go off to their vacations to France via bikes! Trams, bikes, buses and walking are the main ways for residents to get places. There was some interest among residents to do away with streets altogether, but a compromise was reached with the city to alleviate concerns about emergency access. I notice kids travelling by themselves, going to the local library or the swimming hole - walking or biking. Small stores and businesses are located on the ground floor, with apartments above on the main streets.
The apartment block below is built on land that was bought by a group of families, who then hired an architect to design the multi-family building. This way, the families cut out the developer from the mix, and worked directly with the architect to develop the building plans, customizing their units within a framework agreement. The families saved money this way, but the architects job must have been pretty challenging with multiple clients and potential conflicts of needs and interests.

Vauban has an outdoor kindergarten as an option for families to choose from. I am amazed to find out that they actually live upto their name and conduct all their activities outdoors, regardless of weather! The location below is where they meet every morning. I understand that 5% of Germany's pre-schoolers are in outdoor kindergartens.

Play spaces of all kinds abound, mostly designed by parents and local architects and artists. While the developments may have been created with a similar look and feel, the play spaces, and the green areas give Vauban a distinctly unique feeling with lots of visual variety and interest.

There is very little lawn, another strategy for the community to cut down maintenance costs and create sustainable landscapes. The plant materials are rich - great displays of grasses and perennials.

The expanse of solar panels on top of homes are most impressive. Its great to see them dotting the skyline. Residents have the option in Germany to sell power back to the utility company at four times the cost of regular electricity. Vauban is the only place where I see this happening across the community.

Work continues at Vauban to complete its final phase of new homes. At its completion, there will be about 10,000 residents in this community living this sustainable lifestyle.

New use for an old airport

2007-07-02T07:07:00.000-07:00

Messestadt Reim served as Munich's airport until 1992. When the airport was moved to a northern location, the city had a chance to propose a new use for the old airport area - a huge growth opportunity for Munich. This city has a dense urban form with very little real estate opportunities near the city center. What is remarkable about this development is the approach that was taken to plan and develop the site - putting the land and the landscape first. Messestadt Reim is located in a unique plain and meadow landscape at the foot of the Alps, and the new development celebrates the features of this landscape type in many ways.

Planning this new development included some critical decisions to integrate work places, homes, education, commerce and recreation. The Munich Fair, the convention and trade center for the city was relocated here. The next step was to put in all the infrastructure and utilities, including all the landscape elements. Today as I walk through the site, construction still continues on some of the phases, but the development has a complete feel, because the trees and landscaped parks, and plazas have had a chance to mature and become a part of the new residents and workers. This complex is incredibly well planned, and its features include district heating, use of a third of its energy from renewable resources, and green roofs on all flat surfaces. Stormwater is efficiently managed on the site, and residents have great quality of life without having to own cars. Two train stations, buses and trams serve the complex efficiently.

I am most taken by the elements of the landscape and their manifestation as part of the development. The plan includes simple elements like oaks, pines, and birches.Hedges define spaces and create rooms in the landscape. Large areas are managed as meadows - reminding us of the airport that used to be.
I walk upto the highest point on the site and see incredible vistas around me - the forests, the beach area, the new eco-high school with its green roofs. Meanwhile, construction continues within the framework of the landscape that was installed as part of the first phase of the project. Plantings follow the airport grid. The beach and water body was created as part of the first phase to have local recreation opportunities.
Plots for community gardens are planned into the development and have been successful in attracting gardeners. The development charges a fee for the plot and there is a waiting list now for new plots.

Most of the landscape is filled with grasses and perenniels, there is very little grass that is mowed beyond the seasonal mowings of the meadows.

There are hints of the wide airport runways- long vistas and great green corridors that give residents opportunities for many active and passive recreation options.

Kids have taken over this area and created their own hide-out!

Very simple courtyards serve as bike storage areas, and small play areas for younger kids.

These flats have just been constructed, yet the trees were planted a couple years ago.

Wonderfully creative play areas dot the development.

The local kindergarten's play area ....

Bike paths connect every part of the development as well as link to greenways that connect to the city center.

The main part of the development includes a large plaza with a grove of pine trees - very simple, yet quite elegant.

There is also space for a farmers market and local products at the train station plaza.

It seems to me that this development works because there is a lot of consideration given to choices that people could make as part of their daily lives. The landscape amenities play into this focus in a huge way, providing many recreation and quality of life elements that make families choose this development. Messestadt Reim is a case in point of how critical quality landscapes are to urban life.

Munchin' mowers of Munchen

2007-07-02T06:58:00.001-07:00

Some of you know that I have a ‘goat bulletin’ in my office and you’ve heard me toss around the idea of utilizing a herd of goats to maintain ‘clean and green’ land in Philadelphia. I make no claims that this is a new and unique idea - it’s as old as civilization itself. Some of you even indulge me in imagining scenarios, others have offered room and board for the goats, and I even have a ‘back of a napkin’ business plan that a Wharton MBA grad once made up for me!

Meet Sigfried Pinpi, an environmental engineer working for the Autobahn in Munich and David the shepherd. Sigfried has developed and implemented a massive landscape maintenance program utilizing sheep and goats to maintain the slopes of highways along Munich’s main highway routes, a total of 200 hectares (about 500 acres). This is an award winning program that is now in it's 12th year. It was great to get a sense of how it the program works, and I have a new sense of how complex it can all be. Both Sigfried and David spend a great deal of time figuring out sheep and goat safety, the linked system of grazing areas, and the budget. Over the last 12 years, the cost savings have been tremendous, but so have the challenges and complexities. I had no idea that one would have to get so involved with the lives of the goats and sheep - something to pause on. Then, finding the right shepherd is key - in an urban area someone who can deal with lots of homeowners, make sure the herd stays in the right place, making sure that the babies born along the way are cared for, all these things make for a full-time and demanding life for David.

Berlin # 5 The River Spree

2007-07-01T05:24:00.001-07:00

For landlocked Berliners, far from any ocean, the River Spree that runs through the city is a big deal. In comparision, our Schuylkill and Delaware rivers have great majesty! Yet, how much Berliners have the opportunity to enjoy the Spree is great. This chanellized river has become a source of recreation and fun. Lots of boat rides, places to have fun and local restaurants dot the river. The new government complex is built on both sides of the river with lots of pedestrian bridges. One place that I love is where the rivers edge has been turned into a beach. One such place is at the East Side Gallery, behind the painted Berlin wall. Its great to visit this sandy hideaway.

The Badeschiff is hard to find, but when I do its well worth the efforts. A couple years ago, in response to demands for outdoor swimming a private entrepreneur decided to float a big swimming pool into the Spree. I somehow deleted all the pictures I took of the pool, so this one thanks to Dan Douglas, Director of the Raliegh Urban Design Center and a 2007 USA Eisehower Fellow who spent part of his travels in Berlin. Given that the river is not swimmable, this pool gave Berliners a wonderful way to experience being in the river. The pool itself is the hull of a large barge. A big bubble installed over the pool in the cold weather makes its winter worthy. This is a place like no other to enjoy the Spree.

Berlin #4: Hundred years of community gardening

2007-07-01T04:26:00.000-07:00

You see them approaching any big German city by train - along the tracks are rows and rows of community gardens. It’s a unique landscape for those unfamiliar with the concept of urban gardening. For me it’s really exciting to see potentially unusable land next to the train tracks can be utilized so efficiently. Called allotment gardens in Germany, also Kleingärten (small gardens), or Schrebergärten, after physician and social reformer Daniel Schreber – some of these gardens have been in existence since the late 1800’s. Berlin’s history with allotment gardens is a rich and evolving story, it was one of the first cities in Germany to adopt allotment gardening more than a hundred years ago. At first allotment gardens met the needs of urban migrants, then provided food during wars. Today, Berlin’s rich traditions of community gardens is a foundation for new opportunities for immigrants as well as young families relocating to Berlin. I learn that Einstein had an allotment garden in Berlin in the 1920’s – the story goes that he was served notice by the gardening group for poor maintenance and required to clean up if he did not want to forfeit the plot!

I meet with with Jurgen Hurt, director of Berlin Association of Gardeners. He has led the organzation for more than thirty years now and is an avid gardener himself. He takes me to see a garden colony where his own plot is located. The gardens are beautiful – paradise retreats for urban dweller, with very little of the former production oriented look and feel. Jurgen's new addition is this collapsible greenhouse. These allotments have been handed down for generations, and while the gardeners do not own the land, they hand the lease over to family members over generations. These spaces are well manicured, and about 30% of the land has to be dedicated to vegetables. I notice a postman going by, and find out that the gardeners can get mail delivered to their gardens in the summer! Jurgen explains that there are about 540 such colonies of allotment gardens with about 80,000 gardeners in Berlin. Back in the day, as the gardeners developed their gardens some ended up living in them year round. Today, the rules are that you have to have another place of residence to qualify for an allotment garden.

The story at the other end of the spectrum unfolds when I meet with Dr. Elisabeth Meyer-Renschhausen, a professor and avid community gardener. She takes me to see her ‘Intrakultural Garden’ – through a semi-secret entrance to an abandoned railway yard, where she works a small part of the rail yard with a group of Yugoslavian women, young families and North African immigrants. The vegetable garden is a small oasis of claimed space within acres of abandoned land. Local students have also discovered this place as a respite. The gardeners are delightful to meet – an eclectic group. This is my first experience communicating without a common language, and in a garden there is much common ground. I spend many an hour there, and return over the weekend for their summer garden party. There is great food and wonderful music. I’m reminded of many a garden celebration at Las Parcelas in Norris Square!I get to see a number of the newer gardens that are emerging, particularly along land previousl occupied by the wall. One of them, is already being looked at as a development site, and there are signs calling for saving the garden.A familiar story.

Elisabeth has spent many years involved in community gardening issues and has written a book about the New York City community gardens. She will be in Philadelphia in August and it’ll give me a chance to show off some of our treasured assets!

Jurgen explains that in the last 10 years, the average age of the gardeners has gone from 55 to 45. Quite an accomplishment! Its impressive to see how gardening is promoted to new families as a wonderful opportunity that they can access in Berlin.

The city plays this up as well - in its own campaign and in its strategic plan. The supports that the city provides to gardeners is quite impressive – permissions, infrastructure – access to water and materials, and a framework of rules and regulations (Quite expansive, I might say!) that guide the development and maintenance of new and old gardens. Additionally the federal government has stepped in to protect these gardens. As early as in 1919, the first federal legislation supporting these gardens was passed. Then in 1983, the Federal Allotment Gardens Act was passed securing land tenure and fixing the leasing fees. I have a book an inch thick that details out the rules and regulations at the federal level – all in German though!

Check out http://www.stiftung-interkultur.de/ for more information about the new gardens emerging across cities in Europe. Jurgen Hurt’s organization, Berliner Gartenfreunde is impressive in the breadth and depth of support it gives the gardeners. Their website http://www.gartenfreunde-berlin.de/ is mostly in German but I was able to translate some of the pages via Google.

Berlin #3 - The Wall

2007-06-29T05:16:00.000-07:00

For me, reading about the Berlin wall and seeing the remains of its ominous and sinister presence are two entirely different experiences. I knew very little about the ‘nature’ of this wall and as I walk around Berlin, even though the wall no longer imprisons and contains, it’s hard to miss the enormity of its impact on the lives of people. I’m always one for maps, and this one . http://www.maps-of-germany.co.uk/copyright.htm (Visit for large and small maps of Germany) shows how the country was divided. Note the 'island' of West Berlin in the tan part of the map.
Indeed, West Berlin, under the protection of the allied forces, was surrounded by Soviet East Germany, and became the ‘island’ around which the wall was built – all 96 miles of it. This map shows the wall around West Berlin. General Berlin city map, 1961 based on a map published in "Unser Berlin", Paul List Verlag, 1961
Its construction occurred in the early 60’s as a ‘Anti –Fascist Protective Rampart’ by the East German government and what is chilling is to see the way in which the wall evolved in its sinister design, fortified with additional barricades and other inhumane detractors.

Today, much of the wall is gone, its traces marked by a single line of cobbles along the original footprint. However, the wall was never just a wall – it was at least two concrete barriers with land in between called the death strip, where the watch towers, massive rolls of barbed wire, trenches, and underground cells were located. The death strip is where most people trying to escape were killed. It’s chilling to see remains of this architecture in some places.

Parks and gardens, trees and flowers, have emerged in playing an important role in healing and remembrance along the Berlin wall. As I walk around, small groves of trees, gardens with vegetables and flowers, and circles of benches have been created by local artists and gardeners, some with official sanction, and others as free-spirited and temporary expression.

Parlament der Bäume

One place in particular that captivates me is the Parliament of Trees. Wedged in between the new government district along the River Spree, this space defiantly holds its own as a grass roots initiative that could not be removed to make way for the new office buildings. The grove of trees stands adjacent to sections of the original wall, and memorializes the 258 people who died trying to cross the wall. It’s sad to note that the last victim fell four months before the wall came down. “Parlament der Bäume” was initiated by artist Ben Wargin who brought together many others to create the grove of trees, the granite memorial stones and the wall inscriptions. Willows now occupy the death strip. Ben happens to be there busily working with a photographer, talking rapidly in German. He has lots of plans, but his biggest challenge right now is letting people enter the site. Apparently while concessions were made to retain the site, Ben is not allowed to have people on the property - one has to scale a fence to get in!

Chapel of Reconciliation

I walk up to an oval wood frame building through a field of rye, the landscape is unreal. So is the story of this new chapel that now stands on the footprint of its predecessor originally built in 1885. In the sixties when the wall went up, this chapel had the misfortune to be right in the middle of the death strip. For many years, it stood abandoned amidst the walls and barbed wires as a symbol of the separation, and then in 1985 the East German government tore it down, stating that it was interfering with monitoring efforts. Pictures of the chapel tower coming down were broadcast all over the world.

The new chapel was imagined by the parishioners who felt a deep sense of loss and as early as 1990, came together to imagine its new chapel. Amidst the rubble, they found the altar, the bells and the statue of Jesus Christ. The decision was to return the altar and the bells to their original locations, but to create a new Chapel of Reconciliation, with architecture that would be a symbol of a new and peaceful future. I walk into the oval building built of rammed earth and wood – it’s peaceful in its simple beauty. Through a window in the floor I can see foundations of the old chapel. The rye fields, interspersed with poppies and blue flowers, give the space a surreal feel. Every fall the parishioners come together to harvest the rye and bake bread for the community. This is a space that is not shiny and glitzy, its quiet beauty is its heart.

East Side Gallery

I walk to the east side gallery, with some anticipation! When the wall came down, one of the first things to happen was a gathering of more than a hundred artists who came armed with brushes and paint and created the largest outdoor gallery in the world. What had been completely inaccessible section of the wall in East Germany is now filled with images and paintings touching on many a topic. There were plans to take this wall down and make way for new developments along the river, but a group of artists prevailed and the wall remains. It shows signs of wear, and a non-profit has been formed to promote its restoration – however funds have been hard to come by. The mile long stretch feels stark, but behind are some of Berlin’s most frequented restaurants and bars along the River Spree.

Berlin # 2: The Ampelmann thrives

2007-06-29T02:10:00.000-07:00

In the push to westernize East Berlin after reunification, a plan was made to standardize traffic lights all across Berlin. The new standard involved replacing thousands of East German traffic lights that have sported the ‘Ampelmann’ since the 1960’s. The uproar was huge. Everyone wanted the Ampelmann saved. This may seem like a small victory but for East Berliners it's huge. The Ampelmann symbolizes a hope that reunified Berlin will retain some elements of the east.

So what is the Ampelmann, you ask! The literal translation of the word is ‘little traffic light man’. In the sixties, an East German traffic researcher, based on his theory that people would respond better to a friendly figure on the traffic lights, created the Amplemann. Basically when the light is red, a portly guy wearing a hat extends out both his hands to stop pedestrians. When the light turns green, this portly guy jauntily turns to one side and strides across. There was a time when one could tell whether one was in East or West Berlin based on the traffic lights, but now the city has adopted the Ampelmann as its new standard. There is even a small museum and store about the Ampelmann!

So, thanks to the outpouring of support of Berliners, the Ampelmann continues to tell people to stop and go in Berlin. I chuckle when I come to a traffic light - will the Ampelmann be there or not?

City of Possibilities

2007-06-28T14:33:00.000-07:00

City of Possibilities… City of Change …….. – These are the words I most often hear to describe Berlin after reunification. Indeed, Berlin’s own Mayor has a much catchier description of this great city – ‘poor but sexy’. This catchy phrase underscores the huge challenges that the city continues to face with its economy, while highlighting its seductive, urbane qualities attracting young people and entrepreneurs from all over Europe.

I feel consumed by this extraordinary city. Berlin brings out every emotion one can imagine. All at once, I see hope and humanity, signs of unspeakable horrors and deep tragedy gone by, degenerated thinking and cruel actions, and then miraculous recoveries, new aspirations and amazing creativity. If a city was ever on a roller-coaster ride through history, it’s Berlin. So much happened here.

It's humbling - I find it hard to find adequate words to describe all that I see and experience. There are many great books that describes this great city, and one that I remember thumbing through, and now plan to read is ‘The Lost Border: The Landscape of the Iron Curtain’ by Brian Rose. From what I remember, this book documents the landscapes and architecture of East Germany as a way to remember this dark period, possibly before it all gets erased. Another book that I’ve just started reading, ‘The Ghosts of Berlin: Confronting German History in the Urban Landscape’ by Brian Ladd (This book has an engaging start for those of you that are weighed down by the title!) promises great insights into how to address memory and come to terms with symbols of a dark past. Should one get rid of every trace of the era, or should one find ways to some ways to remember this phase of Germany’s history? Indeed, this is today’s dialog in Berlin.

Since reunification and in the last decade, Berlin has been at the centre of dramatic changes and has been forced to adjust and reinvent itself to accommodate huge changes – its new role as capital of unified Germany, the process of capitalization, the cultural and community challenges, the physical impact of the more than 80 miles of the Berlin wall coming down. How complex! I outline the complexities above mostly to free myself and just offer some vignettes about this great city. My personal impressions - nothing more and nothing else.

Its impressive to see the German parliament building - the Reistag with is beautiful glass dome, and the building restored to its former glory. When the wall was built, this building was left on the West German side, seriously damaged during the war, empty of purpose since the West German capital was Bonn. The building goes back to 1894 when it served as the parliament building of the German Empire until before WWII. When the wall came down, and the decision to make Berlin the capital of reunified Germany, there was debate about whether to keep the building, still ruined and in disrepair. Well, with the help of Sir Norman Foster, restorations were completed in the early 90's and today the building sports a beautiful glass dome as a replacement of the original cupola. What is amazing is that anyone can wait in line and visit the dome, and view the proceedings in parliament - symbolic of a new transparency in government. How cool is that! The views are amazing, and I could not count the number of green roofs I saw from up here.

Today the skyline of Berlin is notably different, with Potsdamer Platz as a prominent new center. The German government has pumped in more than $ 1.4 trillion euros into Berlin in the last decade. Brandenburg Gate has been the site of many historic events, good and bad. Built in the 1790's, it served as one of Berlin's twelve entrances. The Doric architecture, twelve columns and graceful proportions, and the goddess of peace on her chariot at the very top highlight the original intent of the gate as a symbol of peace. The gate is located at the nexus of many important avenues in Berlin. In the sixties, when the wall was built, this gate was part of East Berlin, and the wall ran right past here. This is where President Kennedy and President Reagan made their famous speeches. The view below is taken from the western side, where previously all that they could see was the wall and the top of the gate. And as a sure sign that the wall has come down, right in the shadows of the gate is a ........ Starbucks!

Five sunny days in Dublin

2007-06-26T14:57:00.000-07:00

Every year, alumni Eisenhower Fellows get together and organize conferences that bring together fellows from all over the world. How lucky am I that the Dublin conference falls right in the middle of my travels in Europe!

Ireland’s Celtic tiger roars again – we’ve all read these headlines. Ireland’s rapid economic growth started in the 1990’s as part of its joining the European Union, and a lot of other important factors coming into alignment. Today, the transformation of one of Europe’s poorest countries to one with a robust and growing economy is an amazing story of transformation. So, I take a break from Germany and am eager to visit the land of the rising Celtic tiger!

I arrive in Dublin tired and grouchy after a long and delayed flight. What should have been an hour’s hop over continental Europe ends up being a seven hour nightmare. I hop into the first cab, eager to get to my hotel without any more adventures. My cab driver is an older gentleman who is just starting his shift. Irish charms prevail, and he has me chatting about my travels, my family and my work in no time. Actually, I have to confess that I’m thrilled to be speaking in English without hand-gestures and furious checking of my handy-dandy translator.

After a month of journeying through Spain and Germany, its great to see familiar faces. I meet staff from Eisenhower Fellowships, meet with alumni Philadelphia Fellows, 2007 USA fellows and the 2007 Multi-Nation Fellows. What we all share in common is our area of interest – urban challenges.

The conference is Dublin is a roaring success. I am inspired by the camaraderie among the Irish fellows organizing the conference. Great food, thoughtful conversations, fabulous entertainment, interesting perspectives on the development of Dublin, visits to new business enterprises and development projects. Some highlights include a visit to the Intel plant in Dublin that is part of the economic regeneration of the city. It’s an impressive workplace generating many higher paying jobs for the region. Another great Irish tradition - a visit to the Guiness Factory and Museum where we enjoyed the views from the towers and enjoyed a great reception and dinner. Amongst the notable guests at the event was the Prime Minister, Bertie Ahern (Yes, I did get a picture with him and will get a copy from the Eisenhower office when I get back). And finally a trip to a nearby castle and the oceanside.

In between the conference program, I had a chance to see Dublin – a bustling and vibrant city filled with loads of young folks. People are really friendly. Every time I consult my map, someone stops to ask if they can help, walks with me to the next destination and offers their perspective on local history, politics and the state of the world. Public spaces are much loved and used, and I was impressed to see how well the spaces are cared for and programmed. St. Stephens Green in the heart of Dublin, goes back to Medieval times. A local lord turned it into public park in the late 19th century. Its presence as part of the street grid is very interesting – the edges are filled with trees and shrubs that create a green envelope for the park. Once you get though this buffer, the park itself is a jewel. Graceful pathways, gorgeous water features, loads of history and amazing horticultural treats fill the park. Merrion Square is the grander public park, surrounded by Georgian homes, museums, upscale restaurants, and offices. one of Dublin's largest and grandest Georgian squares. The attractive central park features colorful flower and shrub beds, and a gorgeous lake in the middle. Much like St. Stephens Green, the park is hidden from its surrounds with thick vegetation, and is a treat to be discovered. Pheonix Park is a larger regional park in close to the city center. Its a beautiful bucolic landscape with rolling hills and expanses of meadows. Graceful tree lines mark the park boundaries. When Pope John Paul visited in the mid 1990's the giant cross was installed in his honor.The rolling meadows give a sense of expanse - its hard to believe that we are a few minutes from the city. We stop here briefly on the way to conference meetings, and I am tempted to get left behind!

The Docklands area is on the east side of the River Liffey in Dublin and has been a part of a massive redevelopment effort led by the Dublin Docklands Development Authority, created in 1997.

Since then the progress has been remarkable, including the relocation of the College of Ireland to a new, high tech ‘campus without walls’. It was great to walk around the area after listening to the city manager of Dublin and the head of the Development Authority paint the bleak picture of what existed before. Very impressive – and a great new connection to the river.

Would you believe, five days in Dublin and not a drop of rain!

Rust to Green

2007-06-16T16:02:00.000-07:00

There is no escaping mishaps and missed trains on the Die Bahn for those of us with very little experience with complex and highly efficient public transportation systems! Well, I mistakenly get on a super-duper high speed train to Amsterdam, and just as I revel in how much train comfort four euros can buy, I am unceremoniously booted off at a stop that is luckily just 50 miles away! (Actually the conductor is very nice and makes sure that I get on the right train!) Having given myself some time for such misadventures, I arrive at the Essen train station just in time to meet Michael Schwarze Rodrian, my guide for the day.

Today’s plan is to visit a few highlights within the Emscher Regional Park. My previous entry - the Duisburg Landschaft Park is part of the Emscher Regional Park. Actually, it’s a small part of a massive effort to revive a region devastated by hundreds of years of industrialization – specifically steel and coal. Flowing through this region is the Emscher River receiving industrial effluents for centuries until just twenty years ago. The image of this region is that of powerstations, smokestacks, huge pylons and massive powerworks.
Yet, the region is no longer the engine it used to be, and what was left are the industrial artifacts in the landscape.

To start, I would like to introduce you to Michael Swarze Rodrian. As a landcape architect and planner, Michael has worked on landscape design and ecology issues in the Ruhrgebiet since the early 80’s. As I get to know his background, I realize that he has been a key collaborator in creating the vision for the Emscher Regional Park project and has been patiently negotiated many political administrations, economic ups and downs, and career changes, holding onto the idea of the regional park. Its very impressive to see the level of dedication and perseverance, and I could not have asked for a more knowledgeable guide. Michael views the industrial remains in the Ruhr region as the greatest assets that can drive the regeneration of the area. To this end, he explains that ecology and environmental restoration are the key organizing principles behind renaturalizing the Emscher River, bringing positive use to the riverbanks, and reusing the industrial buildings with new and sustainable uses. Today this regional partnership includes three counties and 23 large cities. Each city or town takes on its own projects based on the agreed upon master plan (I mailed a copy back for us.) Check the project website at http://elp2010.de/. As I absorb the extent of the efforts made, I realize that this region is possibly the largest such interpretation and reuse of an industrial landscape ever!

We stop at a small mark – an ‘XE’ at the start of a trail at Bottrop, our first stop. Michael shares that in the first few years of the project, a group of local environmentalists started a hiking group marking the trails with an X, followed by an E for Emscher. That is how it all started. Today, the trails run in a circle around the region for more than 250 kilometers.
Bottrop is the location of the Tetrahedron, a massive steel sculpture that captures the ridge on a slag heap. As we get to the middle of the circle next to which the structure rises, I notice that there is a gentle and steady drop in grade to the middle. Michael explains that the designers intended for the person in the middle to view nothing else except the rim of the slag heap, the tetrahedron and the sky. I pause to stand in the middle of this vast circle of stone and view the sky all around me. In the far distance, I see a solitary figure crouching over the stones. When I ask Michael what the man is doing, he says, ‘You’ll find out when you climb to the top’. The Tetrahedron was built to reveal the landscape of the region to its people, and has become something that everyone is proud to visit and show off. The pictures illustrate this project much better than I ever will in words. In the night, the steel bars are lit in a special way and can be seen for miles around. As I start to climb, the landscape of the region emerges – smokestacks - some working and others not, train lines, massive steel structures, coal mines. It’s quite extraordinary.

Then, I look down at the stone circle below and the mystery of the solitary figure reveals itself! Giant martians and other terrestrial beings stare up at me!
Michael mentions that the man picks out the lighter colored stones to create these figures and has been doing so for five years now. When we descend from the tetrahedron, we stop to talk to him - I am curious about the future. Michael says that he’s interested in expanding the martian family!

Our next stop is the Nordstern, a former Colliery that is now a fully functional office, housing, retail complex with many acres of a landscaped park that was created by the National Garden Show in 1997. (Flower Shows here are outdoors, run for six months and are in the process of design and actual implementation for a couple years before the show opens – interesting model.) The main administration building of the office complex is housed in the factory, and new bridges and pedestrian walkways connect various parts of the site together. There are open air theatres, rose gardens, a small daycare center, water fountains and large plazas, all used now by the office goers and nearby residents. A beautiful riverfront amphitheatre is being set up for today's concert. The remaining wall of an old factory building has been retained, and the landscape that has colonized next to it is fascinating to see. An old coal shaft is now the new entrance to the museum. I am taken by the harsh angles in the landscape, the vast meadows and sharply sloped walkways. The grades make for dramatic views of the old industrial infrastructure! The environmental issues in this area continue to pose huge challenges. I’m shocked to view the open sewer that still runs the length of the region. Its presence is a knife cut in the landscape, right adjacent to the clean waters of the Ruhr. Our next stop is at Zollverien, the best known site along this industrial landscape. The plant was closed in 1986, and today it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In its heydays, This colliery and coking plant produced 12,000 tons of coal and turned it into coke. Today, it’s a meeting point for cultural activities, and design professionals. The largest boiler house has been transformed into the Red Dot Design Museum by Sir Norman Foster. This museum is all about products that have been tested and given the ‘red dot of approval’ celebrating contemporary industrial, product, furniture and home designers. The site also houses local architects and designers in studios integrated into the old storage houses. A reflecting pool becomes a skating rink in the winter. When I look around I understand that there is an eco-exhibit and a meeting of the German Environment Ministry being held - there are lots of men and women in black suits and headphones buzzing around. Apparently it’s also an exhibition and conference center! I travel up the huge orange escalator to the main museum space – a Rem Koolhas signature piece.

A park like none other

2007-06-13T12:32:00.000-07:00

Duisburg is located in the western part of the Ruhr region, the Ruhrgebeit, in north-west Germany. A city well-known for its steel production, Duisburg still has a major working coal mine. Its harbor is a bustling center for the shipping industry. This is a city of a half million people, and is a well-to-do part of the county, reinventing itself as a center for commerce, much like its neighbor, Dusseldorf.

What brings me here is Landschaftspark Duisburg-Nord, a large park that was created on the site of a sleeping mine. The creation of Peter Latz, it serves as a model for the region and the world on reclaiming an industrial site for new purposes, whilst paying homage to its industrial past.

In the mid-80’s there was a growing interest among local and regional government to retain this former steel mine as a site that expressed the history of the region. What was yet to be discovered was how. This early thinking led to an international competition in the early 1990’s to imagine the future of this site. The competition was won by Peter Latz and Annaliese Latz, a German landscape design and planning firm known for its deconstructionist thinking.

I met Peter Latz in Philadelphia when he helped me plan my trip to Germany. When he described his work on this project, what stood out was the concept of ‘revealing the industrial heritage of the region’. It’s intiguing to imagine the application of these concepts in Philadelphia in the context of its industrial heritage.

I arrive at Landschaftspark Nord excited to witness the transformations. An exhibit about the site and its history greets me - high design, great materials, snazzy images. I feel very tiny amidst the enormous industrial infrastructure. The park is 200 hectares, which translates to almost 500 acres. Remnants of the industrial days dot the landscape. Massive overhead ducts, rusted steel infrastructure, enormous gas tanks, rail infrastructure, cooling towers, giant storage bins, and bunker areas used for holding massive amounts of coal make up the existing conditions when Peter Latz started the reclamation process. There were many contaminants to reckon with, unsafe buildings and a polluted open sewer (Yes, OPEN!) to boot!As I walk around I feel the quiet power of times gone by. It must have been such a huge loss for people when production stopped here and the flames were snuffed out for the last time. Jobs were gone, and the economy was in ruins. While much of the landscape must look the same, the transformations are precise, insightful and perfect. Dramatic entrances greet me, I go indoors and outdoors seamlessly and seek out stories on signs along the way that help me understand what used to be. Buildings are repurposed with new uses and in exciting ways for the community to gather – theatres, plazas, performance spaces, and recreation areas. Small garden areas for the community are interspersed amids the industrial artifacts. As I walk around, people are setting up for a number of events – corporate retreats, community theatre, school groups who are visiting to learn about the mine. A storage tank area is now a climbing garden - lessons are available for all levels. Climbing nets strewn along sloped areas wait for the next adventurer. An old gasometer has been turned into a diving tank. Would you believe me if I said that I got a diving lesson here? Theatres with retractable roofs have been integrated into the old production area creating spaces for community movies. The space that I love the most is Piazza Metallica, an outdoor gathering space that marks the center of this mine. Massive steel plates found at the site have been placed in a grid to mark the central area of the complex. Today it serves as a outdoor performance space. New walkways and paths connect spaces beautifully giving me the opportunity to view the site from above and below. The drama is heightened as I climb to the viewing tower and experience the vast landscape around me. The horizon is strikingly green, interrupted by the industrial artifacts. Meadows have become new concert grounds. I see an advertisement for Jethro Tull for later in June!What I appreciate most is the way that Peter Latz weaves the areas together with landscape elements – lines of trees, walkways, native shrub plantings, and stone blocks that give me a chance to sit and look around.

Archways cut into massive walls connect the bunkers. I go from room to room.

Naturalized walkways follow the path of trainlines and old roads, connecting the larger landscapes to each other.
These simple gestures connect the ‘serious’ industrial elements together, making blast furnaces and concrete bunkers accessible and usable. Tree stakes are made from recycled steel posts found on the site. A huge slide hugs the wall of a bunker. I am awed by how the various elements come together, telling its story so beautifully.
Now, about that open sewer! Well, it’s thought to be the old Emscher river and was what the mine used as its outflow. This needed to be addressed before the park could be opened. The sewage now flows underground contained in massive pipes. A new river has returned to the canal above, following its severe straight lines and filled with rainwater. One can see how much water is there when one visits. The deck gives swimmers a place to plunge in. Plant selections across the entire site have been thought through carefully. Based on the soil contents, plants that can colonize effectively were chosen for specific areas. Walled gardens between concrete bunkers have become experimental planting beds and community gardens – my favorite is the fern garden. The park is now managed by a non-profit entity that programs and maintains the site, and brings in approximately 4 million euros each year for its management. The director Dirk Bruesing, is doing great things to diversify programs and activities and broaden the funding base. He has a particular interest in the old trains and machines in the park and is planning to exhibit more of these items in the future.

There are many great publications that describe the conceptual framework for this space with poetry. Check out the official park site at: http://www.landschaftspark.de. And its not that this is the only place that reveals industrial culture in this unique way – Seattle’s Gas Works Park was a pioneer on this count. One aspect that Peter Latz describes beautifully is the notion of creating a landscape that lifts up memory – of an individual, a community of workers (a number of steel mine workers now offer tours at the park), of a city and the region. His notions of creating a design where celebrating memory is central to its framework is very captivating.

The highlight of my visit is to see the night sky at this park. Peter Latz worked with British lighting designer Jonathan Park to create the lighting plan. Its just extraordinary when the lights come on – the drama of the industrial relics is amazing! In preparation for this trip, my husband patiently showed me how to use my digital camera. If I had the patience to learn how to use the camera in the night without a flash, I’d have some great photos. Well, I do – their just in my head!

Rheinufer Promenade, Dusseldorf

2007-06-10T14:16:00.000-07:00

I arrive in Germany to sweeping rain and gusty winds. It’s a quiet Sunday morning, and my program coordinator for Germany has a car waiting to pick me up. The driver gets a glint in his eye when I say I’ve never ridden the Autobahn before. Before I know it, I’m strapped to my seat zipping at 200 kilometers an hour, much like a ride at Disney. What is even more exhilarating/nerve-wracking is to watch the other cars zip by. I find out later that Sunday mornings bring out every speedster and their favorite sports car!

My plan is to spend the next few days looking at brownfield redevelopment and riverfronts in the Ruhr region, a historic industrial area in the northwestern part of this country. Today this area is no longer the production mega-machine that it used to be. The next few days are likely to be very different from Spain where re-imagining places often include celebrity designers. I’m sure to see excellent design here, but what I am most interested in is to see ways in which the industrial culture of this region is revealed and celebrated.

Dusseldorf is my first stop, and I am eager to get to its riverfront- the Rhienufer Promenade.

The skies clear as I start. For years Dusseldorf’s waterfront was dominated by a huge highway, separating the city from its river. The Rhine is beautiful, not unlike the Delaware – a wide working river that has served as the economic spine of this area for centuries. It was in the 1990’s that local government, with the help of state and federal funding, decided to bury the highway and join the city to its river. From what I hear, as the project progressed resources ran thin. The architects had to scale back the grand promenade considerably from their original design. As a result the final results are simpler, yet very successful in reconnecting the river to people in many new ways.

With the highway along the river buried below the promenade, there is room along it for bikes, and rollerblading. Above, a number of restaurants and their colorful umbrellas attract locals and tourists at all hours of the day. Boat tours take tourists for scenic tours of the Rhine from here. The landscape is simple - a double row of topped London plane trees with benches between. Sloped lawns attract sun-bathers and provide a flat foreground in for better views of the river. This is where the lunch crowd congregates, watching people go by. Remnants of the working river give visitors reason to pause and remember. (Yes, there is graffiti everywhere!)The north section of the promenade reconnects Dusseldorf’s theatre and restaurant area. In the night, a beautifully lit pedestrian link connects to the river and is heavily used in the evenings.

A restaurant and theatre sits snugly under a big bridge that crosses over the Rhine, providing a positive use in a location that is often dark and dank. This anchor gives pedestrians a great connection between the north and south sections of the promenade.

The southern section of the waterfront is where a number of new media companies, museums and offices are located. A building by Frank Gehry shimmers in the sun. Funky art pops up everywhere. As does a floating box that contains a restaurant in the middle of the river! There are very few cars with direct access to the river, except for a few local and service lanes. Making the area pedestrian and bike friendly is what makes this riverfront a huge success. Cleaning the river has been a huge focus as well and canoes now dot the waters. Everyone meets at the riverfront, it seems. My lunch meeting with a local Eisenhower fellow is at the riverfront - how appropriate!

A day trip to Zaragoza

2007-06-03T11:34:00.000-07:00

Early one Saturday, I boarded a train to travel to Zaragoza, a city located to the north of Madrid. Zaragosa is the capital of the autonomous region of Aragon. It has a population of a little more than 600,000, and it ranks as the fifth largest city in Spain. While on the train, one could see scrubby desert-like plants, and later on a mountainous landscape. Zaragoza seems to be in a transition area.

It took us 1.5 hours to travel 150 miles on the regular train. The high-speed train between Barcelona and Madrid will reduce this time in half. Pretty impressive! Carlos Labarta – Eisenhower Fellow, planner and professor - met us at the train station. It was pouring rain, and we were headed to the largest construction site in the area - the Expo Zaragoza 2008.
The city was recently selected as the host for Zaragoza Expo 2008 expecting as many as 9 million visitors. The theme is "Water and Sustainability," and the city is approaching it as an opportunity for urban renewal and economic development. The regional government is spending more than 1.5 billion euros to prepare for the expo. The majority of the development is in exposition space with plans for reuse as community or municipal facilities. Improvements are being made to the transportation system, new pedestrian areas, a new housing district, and a regional "rail-to-trail" park and bikeway system. The resources being dedicated to such infrastructure and large scale economic development projects is astounding!

Founded some 2000 years ago, Zaragoza is a city rich in history, traditions and culture. The architecture has strong Baroque influence as well as Roman, Gothic and Arabian. Imagine an original Roman amphitheatre as your city's outdoor concert venue! Zaragoza is linked by legend to the beginnings of Christianity in Spain. Legend goes that the Virgin Mary appeared standing on a pillar to Saint James. This legend is commemorated by an extraordinary basilica located on Zaragoza’s main pedestrian plaza. The interiors of the basilica are breathtaking, and the event is commemorated every year in October with a festival of flowers around Columbus Day. The "El Pilar" festival lasts for nine days and there are many festivities – bands, parades and a famous bull festival. The plaza below was constructed about eight years ago. Before, it was a bustling four- lane street for cars with adjacent parking. The transformation to this pedestrian mall required burying the street and the parking. Its quite dramatic as the central mall for the city!

The skies finally cleared as we reached the historic Palace Aljaferia, a beautifully preserved 11th century Moorish palace. The palace had a square plan and is built around an exquisite courtyard garden with orange trees and channels of water. The rooms are arranged around the courtyards. The coffered ceilings are restored to great detail as is the lattice work. The Aragon Parliament is currently housed in this magnificent palace. This was a great opportunity to experience Moorish architecture and landscape design.

Bilbao blows me away

2007-06-03T08:05:00.000-07:00

I arrived in Bilbao with the sole purpose of visiting Frank Gehry’s creation – the Guggenhiem Museum - not realizing how much more there was to see. My, was I surprised!

Fundacion Metropoli has organized a meeting with BilbaoRia 2000, the organization spearheading the redevelopment of Bilbao. The meeting with Juan Alayo, Director of Planning and Development, was a rich learning experience about an extremely creative redevelopment strategy for the city.

BilbaoRia 2000 was created in 1992 as a public non-profit development entity for the region in which local, regional and central government have holdings. The company was formed to oversee the recovery of formerly industrial areas located in strategic locations of the city, at a time when there was no effective mechanisms in place for government to do it on their own.

This organization is unique because it acts as a broker – cleaning the land and selling off rights for development to private entities, two things it does really well. It creates a planning framework for the developers in order to create a cohesive development, setting design and planning standards. Second, it puts the resources it harnesses from selling the development rights back into public infrastructure projects such as Bilbao’s high-speed trains, the riverfront development, school construction, new parks and greenways.

The Mayor chairs the board of BilbaoRia 2000, and the Secretary of State for Infrastructure and Development is its Deputy Chair. Juan gestured around the conference room we were in to indicate that we were in the room where all the development decisions for Basque county get made! Since 1992, BilbaoRia 2000 has been facilitators of more than 600 million euros of real estate transactions.

After the meeting, my visit to the Guggenheim museum and the Abandobarra redevelopment area highlighted the successes of BilbaoRia 2000 since 1992. I walked to the museum from the BilbaoRia offices, and came upon this shimmering, fish-like building walking along the river (Gehry speaks about childhood memories of playing with live carp as an inspiration for the project.) The museum is actually titanium coated and getting closer to the building reveals that the metal plates are used like shingles. The intent of this building was to create a landmark for Bilbao, which it accomplishes very successfully. What is striking is its dynamic relationship to the river and the rest of the riverfront development. It’s hard to believe that the museum was opened just 10 years ago. Access was a priority for this cultural icon, and one approaches the building via tram, across Santiago Calatrava’s beautiful Zubizuri Footbridge, or by walking along the Rio Nervión itself. I spent most of the time looking at the riverfront development accomplishments that are a part of the Guggenheim Museum complex. The development includes a commercial center, new housing, office space, and the second anchor – the Opera House, a complete architectural contrast. All this is linked together with graceful pedestrian bridges, playgrounds, park areas and playful fountains. There is real sophistication with which the riverfront is designed - a complex yet accessible system of pedestrians, bikers, tramways, and yes – cars. It all comes together beautifully. Grassy tram tracks soften the sounds of the passing tramcars. Bikers and joggers zip by. The pedestrian bridges, built at considerable expense, link the new development with old Bilbaoand the local university.

The front of Guggenheim museum has a nice Pennsylvania connection. Gracing the main entrance is a giant floral puppy by Jeff Koons, an artist from York, PA. This giant puppy was installed as part of the opening celebrations as a temporary piece. The citizens loved it so much they asked for it to remain. So every spring this puppy gets decked out in its floral best.I happened to be there when plants had been installed and the scaffolding was coming down. The workers there were happy to be complimented on their fine work. One of them said: "The puppy is the reason why everyone comes to Bilbao." Pointing to the museum behind, he continued, "That’s just its kennel!"

Soaking in Barcelona

2007-06-03T03:12:00.000-07:00

Barcelona is an important city for architecture students who have studied the striking architectural works of Antoni Gaudi. (I remember someone mentioning that this is the origin of the word ‘gaudy’ - must google!) However, what breathed new life to this city were the 1992 Olympic Games and the transformations that occurred to accommodate this world event. Today, Barcelona comes across as a city of high-style with a distinctive, if eccentric metro-feel. I only have four days in Barcelona - I must quit sleeping to savor and soak in everything!

Barcelona is the second largest city in Spain. Located in the Catalonian region, it serves as a major seaport, boasts a dynamic and bustling mixed-use waterfront and has created a dynamic economic and cultural future for itself. In the mid '80s, anticipating the 1992 Olympics, Barcelona’s then Mayor Pasqual Maragal had the vision to leverage this opportunity and catalyze a massive economic development strategy, positioning Barcelona as a world-class city. This bold approach included an expansion of the airport, transformation of the city's waterfront, and the development of a tourism base based investments in arts and culture as well as a massive promotional campaign. The waterfront is sprinkled with celebrity architects and artists and their creations, giving opportunity for debate and discussion.

The main promenade is filled with activities that appeal to a range of ages and prices. Ritzy restaurants overlook the ocean, and the Gran Casino is prominent on the boardwalk.
People get here on bikes, buses and the train. There are lots of underground parking structures along the waterfront.
New high-tech business areas, a world-class convention center, and the refurbished port that includes state-of -the-art facilities for cruise ships and large scale boats dot the waterfront. Barcelona also has an impressive park system, circling the region as well as smaller neighborhood parks and plazas that serve local communities – their master plan places strong emphasis on parks as integral to neighborhood development. Their largest park in on the hills of Montjuic, and there are many heritage and cultural parks as well.
These spaces were restored and revamped as part of preparations for the Olympic Games. The strategy was not about hosting the games, but about changing the future of the city. Clearly, it worked!

I start my days strolling along palm lined avenues soaking in the city and its ambiance. Striking Gaudi masterpieces pop up along the way. My first day was spent paying homage to this incredible architect. Gaudi did not believe in buildings with straight lines – he proclaimed that nature has no straight lines, so neither must his buildings.
Well, that’s a simplistic way to explain his philosophy, but the pictures speak for themselves.

Park Guell is one of Gaudi’s most impressive works, his version of utopia. The park is built atop a bald mountain area overlooking the city and the ocean, and was initiated by Eusebi
Guell, a wealthy industrialist. Work started in 1899, and so complex was the vision, that Gaudi moved into the park to manage it full time. Today there is a museum at the house Gaudi lived in containing original drawings and models – it was great to pour over these. The park spreads over 15 acres or so, and is a fantastic landscape bringing together opulent built elements with manicured plants and landscape elements.
The most impressive and ornate part is the center of the park which sits on a raised plaza, held up by massive columns and edged with the signature undulating mosaic seats.
The view from up here is breathtaking, one can see all the way to the ocean, with the city as the foreground.
I wonder if JK Rowling drew any inspiration from Gaudi for her Harry Potter series. I can imagine my daughter, a big Potter fan, finding lots of connections! It was great to see the park used, loved and kept up. I spent half a day there, and there must have been thousands of users.

La Sagrada Família is Catalan for "The Holy Family," and Gaudi’s most impressive life-time work. Left unfinished, after dedicating 40 years of his life to this project, Gaudi died in 1926. Yet, the work continued on, as it does today, interrupted by the Spanish Civil War in 1935, and partial destruction of the building by anarchists. Seems to me, there is no better homage to one’s work when it is continued by others!
There is a foundation that was formed to complete the project by 2026, the 100th anniversary of Gaudi’s death. It is clear that there is great progress being made, including the construction of the central nave, and the support structure for the main tower that is yet to be built.
Even in its state of constant construction, this site is one of the most important attractions in Spain, second to the Prado and the Alhambra. The path for this project remains strewn with challenges; I noticed a sign inside the cathedral protesting the City of Barcelona’s decision to dig under the building for a new metro line!

The Ramblas - In my book, the Ramblas rates No. 1. It’s one of the best streetscapes I have seen. Seems to me, there is a rythmn that Spanish people have; everyone strolls, eats, works, rests and plays on similar schedules.
The entire city stroll along the Ramblas in the evenings. This mile-long street runs through the Gothic quarters of Barcelona, beginning at Plaza Catalunya, the city’s main square and ending at the waterfront. From what I have read, the Ramblas emerged organically, and was never really planned. It is best described as a boulevard with a pedestrian area in the middle and with smaller driving lanes on either side. The entire pedestrian area is filled with kiosks, activities, and benches making it a dynamic place. The landscape is simple, but impressive – London Plane trees placed at 20 feet on center give the space its majestic feel. The trees form a massive archway and serve as the main architectural element of the long corridor. Given how hot it gets, these trees are critical to the success of Ramblas.

Neighborhood Development - My local contact here is with an organization called Foundacion CIREM, an impressive non-profit organization that is focused on new immigrant and social service issues, serving the needs of low and middle income communities with many innovative programs - job readiness training, language help, accessing public services, legal help and more recently socially-based neighborhood planning. My guide is Bernat Gomi, a urban planner in the process of completing his thesis. Bernat is young and enthusiastic, with a great Spanish spirit. It was a real pleasure seeing the city through his eyes, particularly visiting Santa Coloma, a lesser known neighborhood in the metropolitan Barcelona region where CIREM was working to engage new immigrants in a planning and redevelopment process and is now serving as consultants to the city as the plan gets implemented. The overall plan includes massive amounts of new housing and commercial development, as well as jobs training and riverfront restoration. The first phase of the plan, in anticipation of the economic development is focused on addressing the following environmental and social issues:
- Uncontrolled dumps in the city outskirts.
- Need for green and leisure areas in the city.
- Unemployment and lack of professional skills for youth of Santa Coloma
- Need to raise public awareness and individual involvement in environmental issues.
Since 2004, the Santa Coloma de Gramenet community has been able to remove 1,500 tons of trash from its abandoned areas and parks, including massive cleanups along the riverfront. The picture below of the riverbank is new for this community, previously overgrown, polluted and the city’s trash dump.
The city has also invested 3.5 million euros in new parks and plazas, and worked to integrate 60 percent of its youth in job training opportunities. Planting more than 40,000 trees and shrubs has been a big priority. Also, they invested in reclaiming their central plaza as a newly revived open space for the community.
All this was done with CIREM working to engage local neighbors and associations, and in partnership with local municipality and city council and the focus is green infrastructure. Quite impressive!

Hola Madrid (Part 3 - Fundacion Metropoli)

2007-06-02T09:47:00.000-07:00

During my travels I am always on the search for other great non-profit organizations. I think its only natural! Well, Fundacion Metropoli is a non-profit organization led by Alfonso Vegara, an Eisehower Fellow. His organization was responsible for the wonderful and diverse program that was put together for my visit to Spain. My program coordinator, Paloma Diaz, was wonderful at seeking out people and officials who could tell great stories and had some specific perspective and expertise.

The organization is internationally based and it seeks to contribute to the innovation and development of cities and regions. Their website is http://www.fundacion-metropoli.org/. Alfonso Vegara describes his interest as harnessing intellectual capital towards the betterment of cities, and to this end, has dedicated himself to seeking out visionary and strategic thinkers all across the world. His strategic partners include leaders from organizations including: Eisenhower Fellowships, University of Pennsylvania, Urban Land Institute, Partner for Livable Communities, International Society of City and Regional Planners, Arab Urban Development Institute, Taller de Ideas, etc, as well as an International Advisory Council comprising 45 urban experts such as Jaime Lerner, ex-mayor of Curitiba and Ken Livingstone, Mayor of London. The organization focuses on best practices and knowledge sharing.

Alfonso Vegara is an architect-planner. He has taught at many academic institutions, including University of Pennsylvania, as well as at several in Spain. Alfonso breathes and lives for the success of cities, and it would be great to get a dynamic group of thinkers together when he is next in Philadelphia.

Visiting their office was a big thrill for me, not just to absorb the nature of their work, but also to experience their Eco-box office building, a great example of innovative energy conservation and utilization. the two principles that the office is based on is to create an environment for creative thinking, and also integrate bio-climatic principles. Unfortunately, I did not get great pictures of the outside. I lost track of time speaking with all the other Spanish Eisenhower Fellows at the party that Alfonso and his wife threw, and then it got too dark. I do have a great book about the building to share when I get back.

Hola Madrid! (Part 2 - Historic neighborhoods)

2007-06-02T08:28:00.000-07:00

I spend every minute I can exploring old Madrid. Puerta del Sol is where every newcomer starts in Madrid. This is where the where every the hustle and bustle is - meeting points, traffic terminals, noise, shops, news stands, as well as wonderful 19th century buildings, cafés, bars, restaurants. Spain’s geographic center is located in this energetic square – it is from this point that all roads and highways were measured. I was disappointed not to be able to actually see the center; Puerta del Sol is under renovation to receive a high-speed transit line. As the name suggests, this space is the soul of the city.

Old Madrid is called Madrid de los Austrias. I got lost several times in the cobbled streets and alleyways looking up in amazement at the facades and iron balconies. Luckily, drivers are used to oblivious tourists!

In the night, street lights give these narrow winding streets a mysterious and romantic feel, and one is transported back to the days of royalty. This neighborhood is named for the Austrian Hapsbergs, and is home to beautiful places like the Plaza Mayor, the Royal Palace and the Opera House.

Nearby is La Latina, home to a huge flea market. When I was there on Sunday morning, it was a bustling place and everyone was looking for a deal! It is said that this is Spain’s largest flea market.

Most everyone escapes from the hustle of the city to Parque del Retiro, Madrid’s signature outdoor space or the Casa de Campo, the royal hunting grounds that have been turned into a regional park.

Developed in the mid-18th century, these green spaces serve as the lungs of the city – with natural areas, manicured plantings, water bodies and impressive alleys of trees. There is something for everyone to do. People love their parks - strolling along the promenades, rowing in the lake, and drinking beer while watching the impromptu entertainers.

Beatriz Blanco, Director of Urban Development for old Madrid is a planner and a poet. She gave me a rich and detailed sense of renewal strategies for central Madrid, and what is being done to accommodate parking areas, new housing, community spaces, etc. in the context of highly density and historic values. My biggest learning in my four-hour walk with her was the emphasis on pedestrian friendly environments - linking important historic areas as well as improving quality of life in the center. There are many zones of the city that are declared pedestrian areas, and neighborhoods have restricted car access for residents only.

High-tech monitoring systems keep track of everyone, and cameras take pictures of cars entering restricted zones, issuing tickets to offenders. Bollards disappear into the ground to allow cars in with the wave of a security card. (I am intrigued by how successfully bollards police traffic flow.)

Beatriz showed some fascinating urban restoration projects, turning abandoned churches into libraries, and installing parking garages under public plazas for local residents.

The principle adopted for historic neighborhoods is to link every public space with a community or cultural destination.

The new housing melds in well, but does not consistently integrate energy conservation techniques. Some of the plazas are inviting, and show signs of community use and support. On one plaza, wooden boxes open out for flower vendors to use during the day.

I was impressed to see a living wall in the heart of old Madrid, done by French designer Patric Blanc. The wall needs a lot of water, sometimes as much as 9 waterings a day, but is impressive nonetheless.

New parks and plazas get a lot of resources (Imagine slabs of granite as the paving of choice!) but could use some more community dialog and innovation. I was lucky to meet with Andres Walliser, from foundacion CIREM, a not-for-profit organization focused on community development and social-service issues. During a tour with him and his wife (punctuated by stops at recommended tapas bars), I got a view of how non-profits operate in the city and the challenging issues of crime, safety, and immigrant integration they are faced with. Andres showed me a recently renovated space, Plaza Luna - completed after an outcry in the community for some improvements.

While I was impressed by the fact that the city spent 4 million euros on this project, the space itself is not as imaginative as some others in Madrid. It all happened rather quickly, given the election season, and the community did not get much opportunity to suggest its future use, it seems.

Overall, old and new come together in splendid style!

Hola Madrid! (Part 1 - The City's Image)

2007-06-02T07:21:00.000-07:00

Elections have gripped Spain for the days I have been here - posters everywhere, rallies in neighborhood parks, impromptu soap box speeches in its great squares and plazas, and cruising loudspeakers in vans spinning political messages. Plaza Santa Ana, a paved square in the heart of Madrid’s old city has been my base camp –rich with history, bustling with locals and tourists. I can count as many as 27 Cerverceria’s and tapas bars. Great way to get started in Spain, I think!

Madrid is a city that never rests, it is always celebrating. My question for everyone is ‘when do you sleep?’ While the city has so much to offer in its rich past, its vibrant present and its promising future, I am most drawn to the Madrileños themselves – they are warm, fun loving and free spirited. There are no language barriers when it’s all about beer, tapas and music! This sign at a store, loosely translated says, 'I'm open when I am here, I am closed when I am not. Too bad our timings did not cooincide.' I think the magic of Madrid is its very people.

My days are filled with tastes of Madrid’s past, its present and its future. All three stories are rich and complex, filled with challenges faced by its people and rulers around war and strife, as well as opportunities that were optimized to define Madrid as a center for business and culture in Europe. It seems that Madrid’s central location has positioned this city with an important place in history. There were many forces that gave shape to Madrid, but locals speak most fondly of Carlos III, a king ambitious about positioning Madrid as a premiere center for business and culture.

While there are attempts to trace Madrid’s history to the Romans, its Moorish origins are evident since the 9th century when the city served as a military outpost. It was not until the 14th century when Madrid became the seat of royalty. The period through the late 1800’s were grand years for Madrid when the city became a focus for trade, finance, culture, as well as government. Historians here say that at the close of the19th century Madrid was in a tough place, as with the rest of Spain, having lost its last remaining colonies. The period after this was filled with strife for this great city, with its economic and political crises, unstable governments, civil wars and changing hands of power. It was not until the last 20 to 30 years or so, when Spain emerged, ready to reinvent itself and become a leader in Europe.

Perhaps the single most important event in recent times for Spain has been to enter the European Union and adopt the Euro as its currency. Today, Madrid (and all of Spain) is going through a major economic boom, largely focused on new construction and business development. Evidence of this is everywhere. I chuckled (and was envious) when my program coordinator said that locals have to download new Metro maps every few months because of the rapid rate at which stations are being opened. Besides new metro lines, Madrid has seen many new large scale public and private investments. It seems that successful political careers are directly linked to the massive scale public works projects!

Most government officials say that their biggest challenge is to address the housing, jobs, social service needs of new immigrants that are flocking Spain. From Ignatio Nino Perez, the city’s economic development czar, I learnt that the 3.2 million population of Madrid is a fast changing and dynamic number. As recently as 1999, foreign population was 2.6% while it is 17% now. The City of Madrid created a 10 year action plan for the city in 2000, and is now on course in its 7th year. This plan includes major economic and social projects, and a scorecard is kept on a publicly accessible website. There are a lot of concerns about how to work with new immigrant populations, this is where I think the United States has a lot to offer.

City government in Madrid recently completed a highway submerging project – 15 kilometers of the M 30 ring road was buried to create new open space and rejoin neighborhoods. The project is funded by the city of Madrid (I wonder what their debt service payments are like!) and is almost complete in four years. At a tour organized by city officials, everyone took great pride in their involvement in the project and could not help comparing and contrasting their accomplishments with Boston’s big dig. The tour was very impressive, focused largely on what is being done on top of the submerged highways.

Housing that once was adjacent to a noisy four land highway now have a green frontyard. I was assured that property values have shot through the roof! My tour guide, the project manager for construction said that the main complaint from neighbors was that it was too quiet for them to fall asleep.

Mainly, new recreation areas are being developed that access to Rio Manzanares, Madrid’s ‘apprentice of a river’ (No, I did not come up with the term. It was shared by Javier Cerrano, the city’s housing chief and attributed to Cervantes.) When I did get to see it, I was under whelmed by the river itself (I actually mistook it for a nearby creek much to the disappointment of my guide). I made up for my faux-pas with genuine enthusiasm for how much was being done to celebrate their river. Above grade projects include restoration of pedestrian links between new and old Madrid, huge expanses of green including active and passive recreation, new urban orchards that include recently discovered 100 year old olive trees (Buried under years of brush and debris). I was struck by the artistic tree staking methods - see picture. The additional budget for ongoing maintenance added to the city parks department for this park alone is $ 200,000 euros per year. The planning and design process for all these projects have included select invitations to world renowned designers to bring these celebrities into the city.

Another impressive project is the Torrespacio, four commercial 50 storey towers being constructed to the north of the city and envisioned as the new financial center. The towers have been designed by I.M. Pei, and are a source of great pride for the city. I was able to go up to the top of the towers in a work elevator, and get a great view of the city. It was striking to see a clear delineation between the city and the countryside near the horizon. These towers, like the M-30 project, represent 21st century Madrid, and while neither project is to everyone’s liking, they are symbols of the new economy of this great city.

Belinda Tato, an architect and her partner, Jose Vallejo run an impressive design practice in Madrid called ecosistemaurbano.com. Some of you may remember them as one of the five finalists for Philadelphia’s LandVisions competition. Visiting their office was a treat. They live in a historic building and are currently rehabilitating it as their office and home with a unique contemporary approach. With Belinda, I visited Eco-Boulevard in Vallecas, in the outskirts of Madrid, where over a 1000 units of housing and a new regional park is being built. There are some examples within this vast complex of sustainable housing, but most of the units are typical flats of rental and low to middle income housing. The developments are not inhabited yet, and it was concerning to see how separate this area was, with very little opportunity for local shopping and services. In the midst of this housing complex, Belinda has been involved in creating three eco-trees. They are best described as structures built of metal pipes, fabric and cables that serve as programmable recreation and education spaces. Each one is unique in their appearance, and all three are equipped with solar panels that generate power, which when sold to the local utility company pays for ongoing upkeep. It’s hard to know what these spaces will become when the homes are inhabited, but that is the big experiment – to capture the imagination of its users. I am eager to see how things progress on this bold project.

Matadero Madrid, a rehabilitation project of an old municipal slaughter house, captured my heart! The intent of this ambitious project is to create ‘a great space for contemporary creation’ including facilities for artists, filmmakers, architecture firms, theatre production, exhibits, new technologies, etc. The project is led by Carlos Baztan, who serves as the chief project manager and problem solver for the city. His commitment and zeal for the project is very evident as he speaks with pride about what has been accomplished so far. While by no means finished, I was surprised to see some of the spaces already inhabited, people were walking around construction areas, stepping carefully over construction materials and around scaffolding. Carlos explained that if they kept waiting for the project to be complete, then it would not be able to capture the talents of the local artists who add their own touches to their spaces. One area is dedicated to a multi-media exhibit done by local artists highlighting the neighborhood and its people. Another area is being used as a theatre with all the trappings for full scale professional productions. A whole section is dedicated to set design and filming. What impressed me most, was to see how the defunct warehouses and factories were made useable. Everywhere I looked, I could still see the peeling paint, rust and stains. Glass walls installed inside the cavernous spaces, with floating floors and ceilings are used to create new spaces. These glass cubes are like fishbowls within which all the creative activity takes place. Another asset is the proximity to the newly buried M-30 project which means that Matadero Madrid will someday have direct access to Rio Manzanares. Check out mataderomadrid.com.

Are we there yet?

2007-05-16T11:43:00.000-07:00

Having been at the receiving end of this question many a time, I was surprised to find it popping into my head! The clock ticks slowly when one travels alone, and I was glad to get to Lyon, a beautiful city in the south east of Paris, the first stop on my two-month trip.

I’m here to attend the Global Cities Forum, an international conference for urban planners and decision-makers. Well, things started in great style with the first day ending at Lyon Town Hall at a reception hosted by the mayor.

The Town Hall is a splendid landmark, built in the mid 1600s. The building was designed by architect Maupain, and then restored by Mansart when it burned down in 1674. Its splendid Roman and Baroque design is well loved and cared for.

This grand building sits on a courtyard called Place de Terreaux, where much to my delight, sits a glorious Bartholdi (best known for creating the Statue of Liberty) fountain. Having studied the work of Bartholdi as an undergraduate student, I was delighted to soak in the details. With this sculpture dominating the courtyard, it needs nothing else and is actually quite bare, paved with slate, surrounded by period architecture. Water bubbles ups from concealed jets in the paving giving this historic space a contemporary flair.

Lyon is a city located between two rivers, the Rhone and the Soane. Next to these rivers are two hills around which the city has evolved. Fourviere is the hill that prays, and Crioux Rousse is the hill that works. The Basilique Notre-Dame, visible from all over the city, rises high above the city on Fourviere. This hill is where the hospitals, convents, schools and cemeteries are, and where the original Roman forum in Lyon is located. Sloped meditation gardens surround this impressive architecture. Crioux Rousse is the hill where it all happens – the markets, the merchants, the fabric displays. Small parks are everywhere, with wonderful spaces where kids gather and play. Lyon hosts a world-famous Festival of Lights on December 8th, when all its residents burn candles in their windows – something Nancy Goldenberg from the Center City District alerted me to. It must be amazing that night; I’m thoroughly impressed with how dramatic the night lights are daily.

There is a lot that is going on that is new - Lyon’s recently completed riverfront development including its convention center, a hotel, offices, apartments, and, get this - a casino! I was eager to see how the casino has been incorporated into the design, and almost walked by it. It blends into this modern complex and appears no different than an entrance to the hotel. Upon closer investigation, I noted that jackets were required to enter! All very understated and tasteful. All this is adjacent to an extraordinary regional park call Parc De La Tete D’or with wonderful horticultural treats.

Now to the conference - an impressive gathering of government officials, planners, designers and environmental organizations. I am struck by how much the science (numbers, statistics and scientific facts) related to climate change, sustainable design, and environmentally responsible design is a natural part of any conversation. The dialog is no longer about the need to act, but more focused on the processes and implementation strategies that are being adopted.

Seems to me, every European city is trying to outdo the other with new innovations in urban redevelopment. As I seek out what creates this energy, I find that federal as well as European Union regulations provide a strong framework that guides urban development, energy conservation and effective resource management. Much to soak on in this front, especially when I get to Germany! At the heart of this conference is information exchange and practical application of innovative ideas. When I couple it with the inspiration of Wangari Maathai at our very own Green Cities Conference held in fall 2006 in Philadelphia, I am struck by how important it is to have "heart" and "head" come together in our work.

The news here is filled with the inauguration of President Zarkozy. Meanwhile I’ve been logging in to www.philly.com to catch the latest on Philadelphia’s Mayor-Apparent Michael Nutter!

On the Road

2007-05-10T12:52:00.001-07:00

Hi! My name is Maitreyi Roy and I work with a not-for-profit organization in Philadelphia - the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society. In September 2006, I was awarded an Eisenhower Fellowship that takes me on a two-month journey through cities in Europe where I will seek out examples of great urban spaces and learn how they are designed, planned, built, used and maintained.

At PHS, I serve as director with Philadelphia Green, its urban greening program. Since 1974, Philadelphia Green has supported the development and ongoing care of community gardens, neighborhood parks and high-profile public green spaces in Philadelphia. Working in partnership with neighborhood residents, community organizations and city agencies, the program uses greening as a community building tool. It educates and empowers people to make the city a more attractive and livable place through horticulture.

This fellowship offers a life-time opportunity for me to learn about urban open space innovations in cities across Europe. My two months will take me to:

Lyon and Paris in France

Dublin, Ireland

Madrid, Barcelona, Bilbao and Zaragosa in Spain

The Ruhr region including Cologne, Dusseldorf, Essen and Kassel, Berlin, Munich, Frankfurt and Freiburg in Germany

Brussels, Belgium

I look forward to soaking it all in and imagining possibilities back home in Philadelphia. I hope you’ll come along with me on this green journey!